Friday, September 25, 2009

F*** Rick Steves. I'm Tom Boonen Bitch!




The saga continues undoubtedly. The last time we all connected was in Slovenia. I now write from the sixth story terrace of a flat in Prague, Czech Republic belonging to the Advisor of Foreign Affairs to the Prime Minister of this lovely country. How did we end up here? The answer to that is the long chain of circumstance, frustrations and decisions made known as the past. Lets take a gander.

Our assault on the Austrian boarder was thwarted for a few days by the complicated road network of Slovenia, a gigantic weather system and eastern range of the Austrian Alps. This, although we didn't know it at the time, worked in our favor. We only later realized that Slovenia, a land of beautiful terrain, fine people, and low costs was not ready to release us to her evil Northern sister Austria. We had a few stressful days of constantly dealing with and attempting to avoid the wet. It is hard to keep moral up after 5 days of putting on the same wet bike shorts and gloves on saturated fall mornings. We prayed for the sun and drank infinite shitty cappuccinos. We used any window of non-rain to slog our way North into the mountains. As we found our last road over the boarder there appeared a "No Bikes" road sign. We immediately bought some crayons and fabricated a sign that read "Klagenfurt, Austria" and put our thumbs out. Some locals found us and asked us why were hitching. They informed us the sign indicated that bikes were only "half-legal" and the cops, if encountered, would only shake their finger. The road was steep, some 22% grades, and involved a 1700 meter tunnel excavated by the prisoners of the Ljubelj Nazi extermination camp of WWII. This eerie light less chamber delivered us to Austria, wet and with few plans.

The Austrian landscape is some of the most beautiful we have ever scene. The roads are in miraculous condition and ungulate through the green pastures of mountain valleys. The camping was easy once found and included, as a few pictures indicate, a October Fest style replica village of a quaint little town. We figured that since no event was happening that night we should not have to pay admittance to enjoy the rain proof structures bestowed upon us. Although a beautiful country we were eager to pass through. The people were less inviting and the prices were twice that of the boarding countries. Who can afford to live in a land where a banana costs 50 cents? Not us I assure you. Luckily you can still find wine for 2 dollars a bottle :) It was in Linz (North Austria) that we realized we did not belong in the affluent cities and regimes of old money and aristocracy, but rather the projects and farm fields of less developed nations. This was confirmed as soon as we entered the Czech Republic to the glorious sights of Gypsy bazaars, logging operations, and cheap delicious pastries.

Our first night in the CR came quickly as we entered the country shortly before the sun set. We crossed a creek and posted up in the tall grass of a farmers field. The cover of night continues to assist us in finding supreme accommodations. The temperatures are steadily dropping and our once too warm of sleeping bags are now rewarding us. In cruising Northward we arrived at the delightful city of Cesky Krumlov. It is apparently one the finest preserved examples of middle age architecture in Europe. It was here that Brett stumbled upon a train schedule while we searched the tourist info center for the best cycling route North toward Prague. Should we pay the 20 dollars for the train to avoid two days of intense car laden riding? Instead of camping should we instead stay the night in town, clean ourselves and our clothes, and sample some absinthe and conversation with other travelers? Absolutely yes on both accounts. The rest is history.

So we arrived in Prague a few days early and in high spirits. We met up with our latest Couch Surfing friend Jana and she provided us keys to her flat and fantastic stories involving Heads of States from around the world. As mentioned earlier she works in the Prime Minister cabinet. She rocks and we are very thankful for all she has done/(is doing) for us.

After an adventurous ride to the Prague airport we learned that we must after all depart from Warsaw in less then two weeks. Our hopes of departing from here or Budapest were deemed "impossible" by another not so friendly airline representative. So little time left! We have opted to stay here in Prague as long as we can, help Jana paint her Flat, catch a football game, take a little trip to Slovakia to visit some other Chaprnkas, and ultimately train it back to Poland sometime next week. It feels strange to have a vision of what the last bit of this trip may look like. It is the first time on the trip that the end is in sight. It feels strange and comforting to both of us. But we do have WEEKS left and that is a great thing. I guess that until the last of the trip this is it. Thanks everyone for following along with us. You all have been a big part of this trip as well. Brett and I have been discussing the posts and constantly thinking about the States. Oh what a glorius land the States are! If anyone wants to party in Prague over the next week do email. You are all invited. Best wishes. Steven and Brett.


12 comments:

  1. Wish I could be there with you; sounds wonderful! But alas, I am too much of a comfort creature to ever do what you are doing, even in my younger days. You sound better, more rested. Have a great Prague adventure and trip to Warsaw. We are glad you are well and do miss you very, very much. Thank you for keeping us posted; the pictures and narratives are so very helpul. With so much love, Mom (of Steven) Hi Brett!

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  2. You're looking very un-gnome-like, Steve.

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  3. "Supreme accommodations!" Haha. Make the most of it! :) L

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  4. So is the last pic one of those "Wheres Steve/Waldo" things. I think I spied him but I am not sure. Any way glad you two are well

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  5. Soooo....what are your Canadian names? (from Mackenzi, mom of Steve)

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  6. Hey guys, so happy to finally get a post (haha steve!).really sad that it's the last one, my vicarious journey must end until your next!!But also happy that you have found a fantastic couch and are in a great place to visit. I think Praha (for Brett..) must have some amazing sights. You both do look a bit rugged and gnomelike, but glad you are safe. I'm sure there are so many more stories...fit for various groups, I'm sure!! Miss you and love you, Mom

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  7. Is the coffee over there better than Starbuck's?? If I were in my 20's I'd be there with you guys!!
    All your biking experience from years past came in pretty handy I'd say, Steve. I bet your asses are pretty sore besides your whole body.
    Soak up as much as you can in Prague and Slovakia.
    Your roots run pretty deep and strong there, Steve. Meeting your cousins will be awesome and something you'll never forget. Stay safe on the last leg of your journey. Uncle George

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  8. my god, that is an awful looking cup of coffee. small price to pay though for the experience and sweaty gnome pictures. I am, at the moment, enjoying a delicious cafe au lait from Thump. not trying to rub it in. but enjoy the cheap wine while you can.

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  9. I found myself in the gardens of the Edgefield yesterday... thinking of you guys. Family dinner of your choice at my house when you return. Kick ass and savor these next few days. xoxo.

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  10. I agree with Steak Ballerina, that coffee looks like a cup of pond scum. Sometimes, bad coffee is better than none at all. Sometimes, the coffee is so bad, you wouldn't wash your socks in it... or maybe someone already has. I think you ARE starting to look like a gnome. That Travelocity gnome has a lot of stamps in his passport, you know.

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  11. Rick Steves can't hang. Again, I'll get the projector ready. Nice pics. You guys rocked it!

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  12. What a great trip. I am following the action from here in the Chugach. Been hunting moose with the camera. I miss you guys.

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